10/03/2012

Purple Sprouting Broccoli with Chicken and a Mushroom, Dolcelatte & Cream Sauce



The purple sprouting season has just started ... it is short lived, so get it while you can!

Cultivated by the Romans, purple sprouting broccoli has only recently risen to prominence. Especially good when young and tender, purple sprouting broccoli should have a strong colour in the head and stalks should cleanly snap when broken.

One classic combination with to steam and serve with anchovies. I like a different kind of strong pungency to offset the strong flavour of the broccoli - Dolcelatte.

Dolcelatte is a blue veined, creamy Italian cheese from cow milk created really for the British market as a less pungent Gorgonzola. Fat content is higher in Dolcelatte, something like 50%!

To make the sauce, simply place some Dolcelatte into a saucepan with a little cream and on a very low heat let it melt - that's it. Thinly slice mushrooms and soften in butter, adding to the sauce.

Over a grill or in a griddle pan, sear pieces of chicken breast.

Steam the broccoli for a few minutes, having split any thick stalks down the middle with a knife. Take off the steam, remove the lid and allow the bulk of the steam to escape before settling onto a couple of pieces of kitchen paper to fully drain off - watery cream sauce is not nice!

Serve out the broccoli, laying the chicken pieces over and covering with the sauce.

Pear & Cheese Salad

I rarely do, but sometimes I get a sweet tooth.

I was never really one for desserts, favouring simple panna cotta, cheesecake or gourmet ice cream, nor fruit, favouring tart berries or rhubarb, but sometimes that desire for something sweet needs to be satisfied and for me, it's pears.

Simply eaten as is, raw and enjoyed, that'll do for me, but pears are equally delicious in a salad, partnered with nuts and cheese, be it a cream Dolcelatte or a soft, sour goat cheese.

I went for the latter ...

Cut a pear into slices and nip out the core. Place into a frying pan with plenty of butter, adding in just a little hint of further sweetness from local honey or agave syrup.

I went with some agave syrup, which I've never had before and upon finding some on the supermarket shelves, could not resist. Produced in Mexico and 100% organic, it was a real gem to find in a UK supermarket. Apparently, it's a low GI sweetener and from what I know about the production, or rather extraction, very much like maple syrup - simply collected from the core of the plant.

It's very sweet; in fact, I read something like one and a half times sweeter than sugar, so go careful here. Literally, just a drop to infuse into the butter.

In hindsight, I may have dropped the ball here ...


There is an important note here about our primal sweeteners and I'll link to a few resources and you can make your own mind up:
http://www.marksdailyapple.com/the-definitive-guide-to-sugar/
http://www.westonaprice.org/modern-foods/agave-nectar-worse-than-we-thought
http://jonnybowdenblog.com/the-truth-about-agave-nectar-it%E2%80%99s-all-hype/

... and so:
http://www.marksdailyapple.com/is-honey-a-safer-sweetener/ ... I tend to think so now.


Leave it out, if you wish, add it in if you do. It makes no odds to the dish.

Meanwhile, I dressed a plate ...

Over leaves of spinach, the now warmed pear slices were layered over, sprigs of Lamb's Lettuce dotted around, pomodorino tomatoes, quartered, pecan nuts and two types of goat cheese: Boilie from Ireland and Gevrik from Cornwall.

The buttery juice was then poured over, a grind of black pepper and we're ready to eat.

Resources

Boilie
Gevrik

09/03/2012

Keema Mutter

Mutter? Mattar? Matar?

Depending upon the region of the Indian sub-continent, but we know them as peas, garden peas or petit pois.

Keema? That's minced meat - usually lamb, but in this case beef. Use of beef in India is rare - predominant religious beliefs eschew eating meat, and where permitted, cows are seen as sacred.

Further north, into Jammu Kashmir and Pakistan, beef is eaten. Cows, however, offer so much more than mere meat; dairy, and pulling ploughs are seen as more important than the meat itself - you don't eat your tractor! When available, beef is on the menu.

Curry is not difficult!

I cannot stress that enough. So many people see curry as exotic, difficult to replicate that restaurant taste, too complicated through use of a bewildering array of spices or simply through a lack of understanding of language.

Again, curry is not difficult and this Kashmiri favourite is one I have enjoyed practically my whole life after first enjoying a bowl from The Kashmir, Bradford's oldest and longest established Curry House, at the age of 5?

Let's get currying ...

The quantities listed will do for two people, or one hungry Yorkshireman!

First, onion. Onions are the foundation of any curry and it is the preparation of the onion that is especially important. We want softened, caramelised onions. Pop a generous helping of ghee into a skillet and toss in a shredded onion.

Spicing is important, and I like to put the spices into the onion to develop the base of the curry paste. I simply go with ground coriander, ground cumin, turmeric (or haldi), white pepper and celery salt. How much? Generous tablespoons of cumin and coriander, scant tablespoon of turmeric, teaspoon of celery salt and sprinkle of white pepper.

Other spices can be added here, later or right at the end. Different spice blends produce different curries - we'll keep it simple.

Drop the heat and allow the onions to gently soften and caramelise in the ghee for maybe half an hour. This will be the foundation of the curry paste.

Meanwhile, in another skillet, brown off a pound of minced meat. Lamb is ideal, beef if you like it (as I'm doing here), other ruminants will do as well - even moose, elk, turkey, whatever you want to use. Brown off the meat and allow it to gently simmer in the residual heat of the pan while the onions are still softening and caramelising.

Curry uses much less tomato than you think. Too often people simply chuck a can of peeled plum tomatoes in without thinking and wonder why it never tastes like it does in restaurants. Use little or no tomato. Rogan Josh, on the the other hand, does use tomato - this is the key ingredient in the flavour of the Rogan Josh dish.

Here, I'm going to use one plum tomato, which can easily be peeled by drawing a cross into the bottom of the tomato and immersing it in boiling water for a few minutes.


That one tomato is then lightly chopped and placed into a blending receptacle along with some ginger, three or four cloves of garlic, a couple of chopped green chillies, more if you like it hot: Garam! Garam! and the now softened onion mixture.


Stick blend the lot together - this is your curry paste.

Add the curry paste to the minced meat and finely chopped coriander stalk, reserving the leaves for stirring in at the last minute.


I also added in some dried fenugreek (or methi) because I love the aroma and flavour. Methi is a favourite in the northern regions of India, the Punjab, and in Pakistan.

Add some water - a pint? Stir in a cup of peas (frozen are fine) and raise the heat and then on a good simmer, allow the curry to cook for a good hour, two is better.

I always find allowing the curry to fully cool after this makes for a better experience later. Made the night before or earlier in the day, the curry can sit and develop, ready for re-heating in the evening.

When ready to eat, prepare some white rice, cauliflower rice, whatever it is you want to accompany your curry, bring back up to temperature and cook out all the water. Just prior to serving, roughly chop some coriander leaves and fold into the dish.

Serve out into a nice wide-brimmed bowl, dropping a cube of butter in the middle to melt into the dish giving it a rich, rounded flavour.

Enjoy!